Late Summer Vegetable Soup

My whole household is fighting a summer cold right now, and I wanted something hearty that would be appealing for several meals over the next few days.  I decided to build a main dish around fresh green beans, while also including lots of other fresh seasonal vegetables.  The end of summer means that a plethora of New World vegetables are all in season simultaneously, not only several varieties of bean, but also tomatoes, potatoes, and zucchini.

Starting Point: Soupe au Pistou by Caroline Bretherton.

Soupe au Pistou is a Provençal dish made using summer vegetables and pasta, so it seemed well-suited for my purposes. Preparing New World variants of Mediterranean dishes is always a interesting challenge. On the one hand, many of the vegetables strongly associated with contemporary Mediterranean cooking--such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash--originate from the Americas.  On the other hand, without signature flavorings such as garlic and basil, Mediterranean dishes made with New World ingredients rarely have the distinctive flavors such dishes normally possess.

Pistou is a mashed garlic sauce that is traditionally prepared separately in a mortar and pestle and then spooned onto the soup at the time of serving.  Separate prepataion is less essential when excluding the customary parmesan cheese from the sauce, but I went ahead and did it anyway for this variation.

I started with a bunch of green onions (8-9), which are my usual substitute for ramps. I finely chopped the white and light green parts only, then mashed them in a large prep bowl with some kosher salt. I then peeled and chopped two tomatoes and drained away a majority of the liquid.  I added the tomatoes to the onions, as well as 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 3 tablespoons of sunflower oil, and 1/4 cup of finely ground pecans.  The pecans add an extra dimension of flavor to the sauce, and make up a bit for the absence of cheese. It's possible to make a closer vegan parmesan analogue using nuts, salt, and nutritional yeast, but I didn't have any of the latter on hand.

For the soup, I first quick-soaked 2 cups of dried navy beans for an hour, and then boiled them in water for 15 minutes. After draining the beans, I threw them in an extra-large saucepot with the vegetables: three more peeled and chopped tomatoes, four medium chopped zucchini, two medium diced russet potatoes, and about half a pound of sliced fresh green beans.  I covered the beans and vegetables with water, added plenty of J&D's Bacon Salt, and simmered (covered) for a little over an hour. I then added about 4 ounces of Ancient Harvest Gluten-Free elbow macaroni, which is made with a quinoa and corn flour blend (I found mine at my local Dierbergs supermarket). I kept simmering the soup for about another 8 minutes, until the pasta was al dente.

This soup should be served right away. Salt to taste and spoon on the sauce. Good stuff.

Zucchini-Onion Soup

I went to the Tower Grove Farmer's Market this morning in search of fruit, but I walked away with several zucchini--two large and four small--and a bunch of green onions.  Accordingly, I whipped up an easy zucchini soup for lunch and made plans to bake a zucchini cake for the holiday.

Like acorn squash, zucchini is the the mature fruit of Cucurbita pepo. I discussed this plant and its cultivation a bit in April's post on baked acorn squash, so I won't retread the topic here.  The zucchini as we know it was not grown in the New World prior to European contact, as the variety was first developed in Italy from C. pepo in the late nineteenth century--hence its wonderfully Italian moniker.  Elsewhere in Europe, the fruit is often referred to by its French name, the courgette.

Starting Point: Zucchini-Leek Soup by Carol Gelles.

I first thawed two freezer bags' worth (2 cups) of my New World harvest broth.  I then coarsely shredded one large and one small zucchini, yielding about 2 1/2 cups of shreds.  I heated 1 1/2 teaspoons of sunflower oil in a saucepan and added 3/4 cup of sliced green onion (white and light green parts; about 8-9 large onions).  (The green onions are subbing for ramps, as usual.)  I cooked the onions for about a minute, then added the broth, 1 cup of water, and the zucchini shreds.  I brought the whole thing to a boil, then reduced to a simmer and let it cook for 10 minutes, uncovered.

I removed the soup from the heat and allowed it to cool on the stovetop for about 10 minutes.  I don't own a large-size food processor--no additional gadgets, thanks--so I then transferred the soup to my two-speed, 6-cup Oster blender in two batches, blending until relatively smooth.  Unless you like your vegetable soups bland, I recommend adding salt and black pepper.  If you don't mind cheating a little with some European herbs, throw a teaspoon of oregeno, marjoram, or thyme in there when you add the zucchini.  Serve hot or cold with a chunk of crusty bread and you're golden.

Spicy Sweet Potato Shepherd's Pie

We're home with a newborn baby this week at the Cahokia Cuisine homestead, and the wife requested a Friday meal that was hearty but sort of sweet. Enter the sweet potato.

The sweet potato is the root of the perennial flowering vine Ipomoea batatas, a member of the morning glory family, Convolvulaceae.  Although sometimes called a "yam," I. batatas is a quite different from the Old World yam (Dioscorea sp.), botanically speaking.  Nearly all American markets and grocery stores label fresh I. batatas roots as "sweet potatoes" to avoid confusion.

Sweet potatoes were first domesticated in the Americas around 5,000 years ago (3,000 BCE). Although the origin of cultivation is still uncertain, the current thinking seems to point to Central America, with domestication spreading thereafter into South America.  Remarkably, sweet potato cultivation appears to have expanded westward into Polynesia prior to European contact with the Americas, likely through direct transport of cuttings.  Today the vast majority of the world's sweet potatoes are grown not in the tropical Americas, but in China.

Starting Point: Jamaican Yuca Shepherd's Pie with Sweet Potato, Kidney Beans, and Plantains by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero.

I've simplified this recipe a little, both to accommodate this blog's approach to cooking and to keep things no-hassle, given the demands of attending to a recovering wife and newborn.  I started with about three pounds of medium-small red potatoes.  Other varieties of potato work just as well--or better--for mashed potatoes, but little reds are what I had on hand.  After peeling and cutting them into 1- to 1 1/2-inch chunks, I boiled the potatoes (covered) with a little salt for about 30 minutes.  I then drained them, returned them to the same pot, and mashed them with 1 tablespoon of corn oil until they had a semi-chunky consistency. I then set the mashed potatoes aside, covered.

Over medium-high heat, I sauteed the following in 2 tablespoons of corn oil for 5 minutes: one bunch of green onions (about 8 onions, light green and white parts only), diced; one green bell pepper, diced; and four jalapenos, seeded, de-veined, and diced.  (The green onions are subbing for ramps, as usual.) I then added two large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch chunks.  I also added 1 teaspoon of allspice, 2 teaspoons of kosher salt, and 1/3 cup of water.  I covered this mixture and cooked for about 15 minutes.

I then added the following to the mixture: 2 cups of unsweetened coconut milk (Soy Delicious); one 8-oz can of sweet corn, drained (Del Monte Fresh Cut); one 8-oz can of lima beans, drained (Del Monte Fresh Cut); one 15-oz can of kidney beans, drained (Full Circle); two medium bananas, sliced in 1/2-inch pieces; and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper.  (The bananas are subbing for pawpaws, as usual.) Fresh corn and beans are ideal, but high-quality canned versions work good in a pinch when you need a relatively quick meal.  I cooked the whole mixture for another 5 minutes.

I then poured the mixture into a 13-inch by 9-inch baking dish.  I spooned the mashed potatoes into several small mounds on top of the mixture, spreading it out roughly with a tablespoon until the mixture was evenly covered.  I baked the dish for about 10 minutes on a lower rack with the oven on broil, before transferring it to the top rack directly under the broiler for another 2 minutes.

This dish is vegan, obviously. With two kinds of potatoes, two kinds of beans, and a little vegetable, it can serve as an entree or a one-bowl meal.  I served it with a cool summer dessert to complement the spiciness: blackberries, raspberries, plain low-fat yogurt, and honey.

Jersusalem Artichokes with Black Beans

A few weeks ago I went searching for Jerusalem artichokes and found them at Global Foods, which is probably St. Louis' best international food store by a long shot.  I promptly forgot about these funky-looking tubers in my fridge, but they seemed to hold up pretty well even after a month.  However, I suspected they wouldn't last much longer, so this past weekend was the time to put them to work.

Also known as sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes are neither from Jerusalem, nor artichockes.  They are the root of the perennial flowering forb Helianthus tuberosus, a member of the sunflower family, Asteraceae.  This is a diverse family that includes several significant food and horticulture crops, such as lettuce, true artichokes, chamomile, chicory, echinacea, marigolds, zinnias, and chrysanthemums. (It also includes some despised pest plants, such as ragweed.)

The root of H. tuberosus resembles ginger, and the flesh has the crisp quality of a water chestnut or jicama, as compared to the starchy, waxy quality of a potato.  The flavor isn't strong, but has a distinct, earthy sweetness.  H. tuberosus is native to North America, including the present-day United States, but cultivation has somewhat obscured its original range.  The exact date of domestication does not appear to be well-established, although the plant was being actively cultivated by Native Americans at the time of European contact.  H. tuberosus was transported to England in the early seventeenth century, and like sunflowers it now grows quite successfully in Europe.  Incidentally, a carbohydrate in Jerusalem artichokes causes--ahem--flatulence.  One of the plant's early English cultivators observed, "they stirre and cause a filthie loathsome wind within the bodie."

Starting Point: Jerusalem Artichokes with Black Beans by Carol Gelles.

This is fairly simple recipe using one small package of Jerusalem artichokes (about six small roots). After washing the roots thoroughly, I used a paring knife to slice off the tips of the knobs, where dirt can accumulate.  I then diced the root, leaving the skin on.  (Like potato skin, the 'choke skin is both hearty and edible.)  This yielded about 2 cups of diced 'chokes.

I heated 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat.  I then added 1/2 cup of sliced green onions (white and green parts only), which is my usual ramp substitute.  I cooked the onions, stirring, for about a minute and then added the 'chokes, 1/2 cup of my New World Harvest Vegetable Broth, and 1 tablespoon of pure cranberry juice (not cocktail).  I cooked the mixture, stirring, for about five minutes.  I then added 1 cup of black beans, which I had cooked the previous day from quick-soaked dry beans.

The resulting vegetable-legume medley is quite hearty, and very crisp even days later.  I recommend adding plenty of salt and pepper--or perhaps some thyme--to taste.

New World Harvest Broth

A lot of the recipes that I make call for vegetable broth.  Boxed broth keeps pretty well, but it's not cheap, and I never seem to have it around when I need it.  So I decided to make my own and freeze it for later.

This broth isn't based on any particular recipe.  If you don't own a juicer--and I don't--it's still pretty easy to make broth from whole or sliced vegetables.  I used:

• 1 medium tomato (halved)
• 1 medium jicama (peeled and cut into four or five chunks)
• 2 medium-small sweet potatoes (peeled and cut into two to three chunks each)
• 2 medium-small zucchini (peeled)
• 1 bunch (8 or so) green onions (white and light green parts only)
• 1 8 oz. package (10 or so) button mushrooms (roughly chopped)

Everything on this list is of New World origin, except for the green onions, which as I've mentioned before are my go-to substitute for ramps (wild leeks).

I threw all of the vegetables into a 4-quart pot with 8 cups of water and brought the mixture to a boil.  I then simmered covered on low heat for an hour, followed by another hour uncovered.  I then strained the vegetables and broth through a fine strainer into a large, deep bowl, discarding the cooked vegetables.

I covered the broth and allowed it to cool for about 30 minutes. I then transferred 1 cup portions into individual heavy-duty 1-pint freezer storage bags.  I placed a large cookie sheet in the freezer and laid the broth-filled bags on them so that they would freeze flat.  After an overnight freeze, I was able to stack the flat bags to save space.  This recipe yielded about 5 1/2 cups of broth all told.

It's generally not advisable to thaw and refreeze broth, so freezing in these relatively small portions works great.  You can place a single bag in a microwave-safe bowl and zap it for 30 to 60 seconds to thaw it as needed for use in recipes.

Quinoa Salad with Potato and Navy Beans

Following up on last week’s cupcakes, I wanted to work again with quinoa.  However, this time I was interested in cooking a stovetop whole-grain meal, as opposed to baking with quinoa flour.

Starting Point: Giada de Laurentiis’ Quinoa and Purple Potato Salad

The original recipe seems to be designed as a visually appealing Peruvian-Italian fusion side dish.  Not only did I want to shift away from the Old World ingredients, but I wanted something much more utilitarian: a hearty grain-potato-legume salad that I could have as a main dish every day for the next week.

Instead of gardens peas, my variation on this salad used small navy beans.  I used dry, bagged beans, not canned.  I first applied the so-called “quick-soak” on them: boiling 2 cups of beans in water for five minutes, removing the pot from heat, and then letting the beans sit in the warm water for an hour.  I then drained the soaked beans, transferred them back into fresh water, and cooked them at a simmer for an additional two hours.

Purple potatoes are attractive and all, but large red potatoes worked just fine for my purposes. I prepared two large potatoes as directed: unpeeled, cut into cubes, boiled for 15 minutes, and drained.

I moved on to the dressing next.  Instead of black olives, I used Bella Sun Luci sun-dried tomato halves, going for the soft, bagged variety, rather than the kind packed in jars with oil.  I used sunflower oil instead of olive oil, and pure cranberry juice (not a blend or cocktail) instead of lime juice.  I left out the oregano and swapped 1/8 teaspoon of cayenne pepper for the 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.  All of these I combined with light agave nectar and salt in my 3-cup food processor.  I then refrigerated the resulting dressing while I prepared the quinoa.

For the quinoa, I added 2 cups of Bob’s Red Mill Organic Whole Grain Quinoa to 4 cups of Swanson organic vegetable broth (stretched with a little water).   Instead of garlic, I used the bulbs from about four green onions, which are a good substitute for the flavor of wild leeks, or ramps.  After bringing the quinoa, broth, and onions to a boil, I let the mixture simmer for 20 minutes, giving it a thorough stir every few minutes.  There was no need to remove the onions once the quinoa was cooked.  After letting the quinoa rest for a few minutes off of the heat, I combined it with the beans and potatoes in a large bowl.  I then added the dressing and tossed.

The result is perhaps I little heavier on the quinoa than I was initially anticipating, much more of a grain dish than what one typically thinks of as a salad.  Swapping beans for peas makes it even heartier.  Ultimately, I think of it as a South American version of succotash.  Accordingly, next time I might try a more vegetable-like bean, such as lima beans.

This dish can be eaten cold like any potato salad, but I prefer it hot.  I’ve been eating it with a little leftover wild rice, just to add yet another whole grain to the mix.

Quinoa Chocolate-Banana Cupcakes

If you're going to bake from American origin and not make the same handful of recipes all the time, you're going to have to look beyond cornmeal.  Quinoa (keen-wah) is one of the staple grains of the Western Hemisphere, and it's starting to appear more frequently in standard supermarkets, both as a whole grain and as a flour.

Quinoa is the seed of the annual flowering forb Chenopodium quinoa, a member of the amaranth family, Amaranthaceae.  This family includes not only amaranth itself, but also tumbleweeds and several species cultivated as ornamental plants.  The plant is not a true grass, so the grain is therefore regarded as a pseudocereal.  In its natural state, the grain is coated in a bitter chemical called saponin, which is toxic to humans.  The grain must therefore be carefully washed before preparation. (Packaged whole grain quinoa is almost always pre-washed.)   C. quinoa has been utilized as a food source in South America for thousands of years, with cultivation dating to around 1500 BCE in the Lake Titicaca Basin of Bolivia and Peru.

Quinoa makes a good South American stand-in for a related North American species, C. berlandieri, also known as pitseed goosefoot.  C. berlandieri is one of the only grains known to have been domesticated in the present-day United States, with evidence of cultivation appearing around the same time as its southern cousin.  Pitseed goosefoot has effectively vanished as a cultivated grain in the U.S., although it is still grown in Mexico, primarily as a leaf vegetable under the name huauzontle or red Aztec spinach.

Starting Point: Bob's Red Mill Sour Cream Fudge Cupcakes

For starters, I used peanut oil instead of butter, heating it with a little water and then whisking in the cocoa (Hershey's works fine).  My quinoa flour is Bob's Red Mill Organic Quinoa Flour.  I sifted the flour with the baking power, baking soda, and salt.  Instead of sifting this mixture with sugar, I added 1/2 cup of maple syrup and 1/2 cup of light agave nectar after sifting, and then blended it all together with the cocoa mixture.

I wasn't using eggs, which simplified the final steps in the batter preparation.  After blending in the cocoa mixture, I added two pureed bananas.  The banana is, of course, originally Asian, but the flavor and consistency mimics the North American fruit known as the pawpaw (Asimina triloba).  Pawpaw can be gathered locally in the St. Louis area, but the fruit isn't mature until late summer or early autumn.  I then added vanilla and, instead of sour cream, 1/4 cup of unsweetened coconut milk and 1 teaspoon of white vinegar.

These cupcakes needed about 22 to 23 minutes in my oven, instead of the recommended 20 minutes.  Far from being dry, they turned out extra-moist, almost like a boxed "pudding cake".  Very decadent.  The nutty taste of the quinoa combines well with the cocoa and banana flavors.

These go really well with a peanut butter frosting. To prepare that one either needs to cheat a little and use regular confectioner's sugar (as I did) or hunt down some maple sugar.

It's likely that pitseed goosefoot would have been harvested in the fall in North America, so quinoa-based baked goods such as these cupcakes make an excellent autumn treat.